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Project diva homemade controllers

Discussion in 'Tutorial Area - By users for users!' started by nofutur, Jul 20, 2016.

  1. Doctopus

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    The distance tracking was ported to PS4 for motion/gyro control and touchpad. The first one is basically the faster you tilt the controller the faster the slider maxes out. I also tested the second one on both my prototype slider and DS4 (may be a little bit hard to reproduce on DS4 due to the size of the touchpad. If you want to reproduce it I suggest that you try it in the practice mode with songs that feature long slider notes e.g. Dear Cocoa Girl @ ExEx difficulty. Also put the DS4 on a flat surface and slide the touchpad with index finger helps too)
     
  2. Doctopus

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    #82 Doctopus, May 22, 2018
    Last edited: May 22, 2018
    https://www.kitronyx.com/snowpad.html

    I'm staring at this so hard, it makes me want to by half dozen of them and stick them on the back of my controller :p (After I saw what Sega did, this idea is not that insane for me anymore) (plus, you got a (half) Chunithm controller for free :p)
     
  3. Drek

    Drek Big Debut

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    #83 Drek, May 22, 2018
    Last edited: May 22, 2018
    Hello @finonymouse, nice to see you here ! The pictures of your controller were a big inspiration to build mine.

    The microleaf switch seems to be interesting and plug and play (except for the bending).
    I will try it before spending much more on a full sanwa set.
     
  4. colonelmasako

    colonelmasako Big Debut

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    #84 colonelmasako, May 22, 2018
    Last edited: May 22, 2018
    As a nice to have, I got the wing lights to do cool stuff.



    @Doctopus , yeah the speed mechanism is there, interesting. Not that there is a lot I can do to change my setup to support it. As is, I played Dear Cocoa girls at Ex Ex and passed it. I suck at high difficulty but every slide miss was due to me being a derp, not due to the code, so that makes me feel confident. I did try other hard songs and found I couldn't keep up. I may accept the fact my method isn't good enough for top tier Ex Ex difficulties. But as I'm not the ultimate player I can't say that for sure. Changing what I have would be destructive; if I were to physically take out the current one, it would be impossible to put the exact same one back down, and I'd have to recalibrate all over again.

    I built this thing to a) see if it was possible b) make it so I can play at home on a real controller c) make my convention setups much easier. Most players who want to play hardcore will just use the DS4 controller, and all they have to do is press the PS buton on their controller to make it work with this one. A vast majority of con attendees will play it as is and have no trouble.


    Very interesting on those Snowpads, where were those 2 years ago when I first messed with this? If you could daisy chain them, this is the ultimate solution for sure. Tempted to nab one and see what I can do with it. Good find!

    EDIT: Finally got the pics of the optical switch for your folks, sorry it took so long.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    From what I can tell, there is a very light spring tension on that tab, and that enters the device for the photo detection. Otherwise its molded like a standard light holder and everything.
     
  5. Doctopus

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    So that was all the magic. (jk) No wonder why they put a life expectancy on those switches. (Otherwise they are not mechanically tied to the buttons and are basically immune to aging by pressing)

    I had the idea of using multiple touchpad controllers when I was still trying to figure out what kind of technologies should I use for the controller so that they are more cost-effective and fits my play style (e.g. Brook vs GIMX vs custom USB microcontroller based encoder, FTIR vs normal camera vs resistive vs capacitive (and this also splits into subtopics e.g. single/multiple controllers, noise immunity, glove safety, what component should I choose, etc.) for the slider, etc.) but soon I abandoned it because

    1. 99% of these touchpad/screen controllers are only available under NDA, espeacially for the "good" ones that can support larger surface area, has better performance and are glove safe. It is also basically impossible to get modules for them (you can't even design your own unless you are big companies like Sega) (MTCH6301, however, is an exception. I knew this back then but decided not to touch it because 2)
    2. Use multiple controllers to separate zones still sounds crazy for me at that time and is considered as a low priority backup plan (Although now it seems that Sega also did this, in a crazier way)
    PS: I still want to see what exactly did they do on the internal of the slider hardware, just for the lol's (it must be really fantastic if they really put 32 independent DS4-sized touchpads on that slider)
     
  6. LanDi

    LanDi Welcome to DIVA!

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    Thank you for the picture, I see the switch now so it all makes more sense to me now. As long as I can figure out the wiring (Which I'm somewhat confident I can) they should just drop into the buttons and work.

    I hope the case for the switch is molded higher against the button case so there isn't that 'gap' of space between the phyiscal button plunger like the ones we've been using. I did also order those leaf spring switches from a few posts ago so that's my plan B if something goes utterly wrong. They were cheap enough to get a set to use as spares or replacement parts even, so I figured I'd hang onto a set of those too.

    My LHSXF's are on their way to me now. Before Friday I hope to have them.
     
  7. LanDi

    LanDi Welcome to DIVA!

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    I got the LHSXF to work and it definitely is the same responsiveness as the arcade. Buttons themselves don't feel exactly right resistance wise but I suspect that has to do with them being worn in from being played by hundreds of people over time at the arcade. Not a big deal, the bottle neck was the break point of the analog switches from before for me.

    I can do tickles, swats and double hand drum on a single button now (not that I'm going at these techniques but they're now possible) and in general I just notice that I can play the same way I do at the arcade, like using my pinky to tap buttons during holds without worrying about not tripping the switch and hitting notes so I don't have to hammer my pinky down hard anymore, now it just works so the bottle neck has once again become my own skill. But that's the fun in it.

    Below is the diagram of how they're wired up and a picture of them all together in my proto-controller. I gotta finish the real case but it may be a week or two before I get it done since I have a bunch of other stuff going on atm.

    33602815_2044745202234446_2438526463226413056_n.png image (11).jpg
     
  8. Doctopus

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  9. LanDi

    LanDi Welcome to DIVA!

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    image (1).jpg

    Switches are holding up, still playing and working on getting better. I moved the analog sticks above the buttons to try and drum on the buttons better for fast songs like Common World Domination but now I'm hopeless with some slide sections as I've lost all the muscle memory.

    Haven't had time to make the final plexiglass case but I did have some custom artwork done up for the buttons and printed onto vinyl and wanted to share.
     
  10. rinrinrinrinrinrin

    rinrinrinrinrinrin Welcome to DIVA!

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    How hard would it be to install those switches on the OBSA-100UMQ? I have my own controller but I'm using the regular analogue sanwa switches. Do you need a special/specific housing for them?
     
  11. finonymouse

    finonymouse Welcome to DIVA!

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    No modifications to the button are necessary. The pictures in that album are of the switches installed on an OBSA-100UMQ. They just look really odd installed in the pictures because the switches sit at an angle but they do just click in like the other microswitches.
     
  12. XMIKUX01

    XMIKUX01 Welcome to DIVA!

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    hi! i just read this whole form and am remaking the whole arcade machine! this was a really great help
     
  13. Doctopus

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    After a few days of "field testing" on the finished controller, I just want to say that the SoftPot feels even more narrower than I expected. Movements need to be a lot more precise than on the actual arcade. I keep missing doubles because I cannot move my left hand as precise as my right hand and only one side got registered by the game (espeacially for both-right slides, more than half of the time my left hand fell off the track and I got a wrong/miss unless I properly align my hands then slide)

    Otherwise the detection works almost perfectly. I can do doubles (if my hands were properly aligned), stepping (press and hold the touchpad and move a little when the game tells you to slide), hold buttons while sliding, etc.

    So TL;DR: If there is a wider membrane potentiometer it can certainly make things better, but I still want a proper arcade-like capacitive solution if possible.
     
  14. Doctopus

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    #94 Doctopus, Aug 6, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2018
    Just saw @Tomtortoise ' latest work on the capacitive slider. Very impressive. I kinda want to see how it runs on my Playstation Labo custom encoder PCB as a stretched touchpad :D
    https://tt3d.xyz/2018/07/28/divaslide-revisited-its-happening/
    https://tt3d.xyz/2018/08/01/divaslide1_0-code-complete/
    [​IMG]

    PS: I'm planning something big for the slider, although don't expect it will yield any working prototype in a year or more (unless miracle happens or I have a huge amount of time to spend or I decided not being lazy or whatever) so just ignore this line and pretend I said nothing ;)
     

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