1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. The following games have been added to the forums in the "OTHER GAMES" section. (Zyon, Begami, Dynamix, Groove Coaster, Miracle Girls Festival and Voez). Check it out!
  3. Hello Guest! Did you know that we're also on Discord? You can join us here: https://discord.gg/aa578Mm.
    Dismiss Notice
  4. We adjusted the trophy points for posting in the International Forums to encourage non-english users to talk in their local language! Don't be shy! More information in this thread!
    Dismiss Notice
  5. We have made an announcement regarding piracy in Edit Data threads, please read more in here.
    Dismiss Notice

Project diva homemade controllers

Discussion in 'Tutorial Area - By users for users!' started by nofutur, Jul 20, 2016.

  1. Very nice controller. I'm very interested in the vector graphics surrounding the buttons and the 10th anniversary thing, all legit looking from the cab. Also the arcade future tone logo. Mind sharing?
     
  2. Thank you. No problem for sharing.
    I simply found the logos with google image. Future tone logo borders are not clean but it's ok for small size printing.
    For the button graphics, i drew it myself with Inkscape. I give you the original .svg vector file and a PNG extract. It is not exactly the same size and font as the cab, but looks great.

    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BwA9Y1YmUTkoeXlwalN1N19IUWM?usp=sharing
     
  3. I saw several new project and this cute little baby lol

    [​IMG]
     
  4. I managed to get a prototype touch slider with 16 elements working to the point that it can tell me when fingers start and stop moving, and the same technique should work fine for 32 (or 48, for that matter...) and for any capacitive controller.

    Current blockers for my own project:
    • I want to know what components the real touch slider is using. Part numbers if possible, or if not, whether it is 32 independent sensor units, or one unit with 32 electrodes, or some combination like my own prototype... If the real part exists, maybe that can be used.
    • I want to light up the touch panel like the real thing, but I can't tell from outside the machine whether it's 32 LEDs or 64 LEDs, because there is that fancy plastic stuff blocking the view. Someone with the real thing should be able to easily check. (What I can see is that there is some kind of plastic channel directing the light so that it only lights up immediately in front...)
    • The real thing's LEDs light up as you touch the sensors and seem to light up twice as strong if you have two fingers on the same sensor, and I'm wondering how I'm going to do that detail, but considering ignoring it. (Every sensor is analog but I don't really know if I can afford the time to get analog readings for all sensors.)
    • I am looking for diagrams of the panel and all the sizes and angles. I do have a lot of photos from the last trip to Japan but every time I find something I'm missing, having to wait until the next trip sucks.
    • Figuring out how I'm going to do power. If I can somehow get LED bulbs for the main buttons then there is a question of whether I can scrape through with just the USB power supply. (If I have to use the real bulbs then obviously I'm forced to use external power as well.)
    It seems like a long road, and I'm constantly worried that Hori is going to release something usable at some point, but now it's looking more like they won't, which is good for motivation.
     
  5. I can answer some of your questions, you are a few months of work behind where I was before I got busy, but I'm motivated to finish it. Well done on progress so far.

    1. The real touch slider is a piece of custom shaped PCAP film, like used on touch screens. Sectioned out to 32 sections, but the sense changes between those points. In the test menu, you'll see the threshold increase and decrease between these parts as you slide across. As a result the touch controller and PCB and all that is likely all endemic to Sega's designs, and I'm fairly convinced this same sensor is used for Chunithm for the main slider for that game. You won't be able to buy this even if you had the part number. And I've looked, no one makes a 24" x 3" PCAP film, but would for the low NRE cost of $8k from one source. In my opinion, 32 is overkill. I got mine working with 10, so there is that

    2. Its a piece of acrylic side lit with standard spaced RGB Leds. The Sega board has them precisely mounted, but you can (and I have) achieve the same effect with side lighting with an RGB LED strip. Harder to assemble, trying to figure that out, but it looks good when you do it.

    3. I would ignore the intensity part of the lighting of the white. My touch sensor can track my movements across the elements by turning on the white LED, but that is constant on or off (a sperate LED in my RGB lights, instead of the white being the combo of R, G, and B). It works fine and looks like the arcade to me.

    4. Look a few posts back, I put up my measurements from the actual manual from the game.

    5. Power will be complex for mine, I imagine you'll want to follow my method there. I need to power the LED strip, the touch control board, and the lights for the buttons. The LED strip is very bright and has its own wall wart, a USB charger can be used to power the other boards, lights from the buttons might work at 5V but maybe a seperate 12V supply should be part of this, or something that generates 5V from the 12V mains. Many ways to skin this cat.

    I wouldn't worry about Hori creating a slider based controller. Its expensive, and hard to mass produce. The margins would be too small I would think for them, and the demand is not there. I mean it is, but not at their level.

    Once I make more progress I'll stop being lazy and upload more pics to share. If you need help with the LED code, I'm happy to share that, since I just hacked what I found from others to work for me, and likely it will work with yours.
     

Share This Page