1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. The following games have been added to the forums in the "OTHER GAMES" section. (Zyon, Begami, Dynamix, Groove Coaster, Miracle Girls Festival and Voez). Check it out!
  3. Hello Guest! Did you know that we're also on Discord? You can join us here: https://discord.gg/aa578Mm.
    Dismiss Notice
  4. We adjusted the trophy points for posting in the International Forums to encourage non-english users to talk in their local language! Don't be shy! More information in this thread!
    Dismiss Notice
  5. We have made an announcement regarding piracy in Edit Data threads, please read more in here.
    Dismiss Notice

Project diva homemade controllers

Discussion in 'Tutorial Area - By users for users!' started by nofutur, Jul 20, 2016.

  1. Speaking of springs, does anyone know where to get softer springs for the 100mm and 60mm dome buttons? I purchased my buttons from Adafruit. The sanwa ones were waaaaay too much so I got these instead but they seem hard to press (not sure what weight they are as well)

    https://www.adafruit.com/product/1187
     
    TheBeep likes this.
  2. Trust me, the sanwa dome are expensive (not that much if you care how long it lasts) but really the best. Sega used those buttom in their cab.
     
    TheBeep likes this.
  3. Oh I know how much better they are. I just dont have $300 to spend on 8 buttons. It wouldn't be so bad if there was a store that sold them in the states. The shipping from japan is redicilous, also I think the store selling them jacks up the price knowing they are the only sellers of these buttons.
     
  4. ...or just go completly insane....
    as for buttons i went noname plus cherry switches...feels great, if you like click like i do. ;)
    might get the original ones some day and upgrade...

    IMG_20170604_112734.jpg
     
  5. Damn, is that just the generation 1 cab or did you make it?
     
  6. Hello. My controller.
    In size, a complete copy of the arcade panel.
    Also "wings" flash 6 different colors in time with the music.
    Working ~ 47cm touch panel.(True from the small size of the touch pad DS4, the developers in the game decided to make a general introduction for all the double slides)
    IMG_20170730_164825.jpg
     
  7. That is fantastic. I wish I could have added wings but my laser cutter is only 24x12 inches

    Do you have any more details on the touch slider and how it was made? I have been looking to upgrade my buttons to a slider.
     
  8. Really impressive O_o;
    Same question about the touch slider part.
    I hesitated when I did mine but I'm ready for a new project ^___^
     
  9. I didnt realize that the DS4 touch pad was multi-touch... that certainly opens things up.

    For my own controller I used k-shoot/sound voltex inspired dials with rotary encoders for the slides.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  10. Video in good quality)

     
  11. After lots of research, I made a working touch slider in 7 days. And it supports multi touch in all the combinations. Needs a lot of improvements, and it broke so I need to fix it, but I was able to hit all the wierd combinations of slides in Nostalgic on Extreme with it. Beauty of this technique is its easy to make, I'm considering making the plans for it public.


    [​IMG]
     
  12. #32 PlayerOne, Sep 22, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2017
    Not a low resolution? will double slides work left-left, right-right.
    By the way the resolution of the original touch panel 32.

    My touch pad is pretty simple. Dalshock 4 touchpad + copper foil and plume.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. I'm aware its 32, I have access to a real cab and have studied it a lot. What they did was kind of ridiculous. My implementation is relatively low resolution (10 point), but I'm finding double slides work fine (left left, right right) so long as you follow my assumption in my software logic: the two hands will never be closer to each other than 2 elements. I can handle left and right slides anywhere on the board with one hand, I can handle resting your hand on one end while sliding on the other, but I think my assumption that dual slides will never be right next to each other will work. I can improve things further down the line with a custom PCB with multiple touch controllers to up the resolution to like 20, but for now I'm going to build something really solid with this 10 point version and really test it.

    The elements are made with conductive ink. Processed through the arduino, its really easy to get it to the brook board. Your copper foil implementation looks pretty clean, does it work well with multi touch slides? I thought the PS4 dual shock touch pad was no good for this. The reason I chose the ink process is because its super easy and quick to make, and I have complete control over the sensing logic. But if this works well, I might adopt your method :)

    Being observant, you have the real deal OBSA-LHSXF switches for your buttons. I couldn't find those online, where did you get them? And the connector that plugs into them? That is legit as it gets button wise.

    One more thing to note: I just got in an Adafruit 100mm button, and my feedback is: the button shape is fine, the switch might be ok (going to compare to the real thing tonight), but that spring is SUPER tight. To save money it would be better to buy the springs and switches you need, and use the Adafruit frames. Or just buy everything original if you can :p
     
  14. #34 PlayerOne, Sep 22, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2017
    All double slides are entered the same for my method, for slides => => and <= <= need to be done quickly.
    My foil works through 6mm acrylic, the same method works with double-sided tape and food aluminum foil (poorly soldering)
    A standard 4 pin plug in it inserts standard crimp terminals (dimensions like an arcade stick).
    Sanwa sells 4 kinds of switches: old type - the standard one has a 3-pin switch instead of the button (it makes it easy to make the buttons illuminate), 1F - the usual 2-pin button, DF - magnetic reed switch, XF - photosensor. I have 1F and a simple scheme with a transistor.
    [​IMG]
    My original buttons are also tight, I got used to them for a long time.
     
  15. I recently started working on one myself, I was wondering if anyone knew the distance between the centers of the 100mm buttons. I want it to feel like the actual thing.
     
  16. Perhaps this will help

    [​IMG]
     
    Pyrotorch69 likes this.
  17. That, is actually incredibly useful. Like that solves any issues I was mulling over in my head. Ill share mine when I finally manage to get my parts in. Akishop is great but it took forever to ship my stuff. Thanks a ton for the assembly with detailed meassurments.
     
  18. #38 Drek, Sep 28, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2017
    Hello,

    So, this is some pictures of my controller !

    IMG_20170909_230529.jpg
    IMG_20170909_2314192.jpg

    Nothing complicated or innovative, this is my first experience in arcade stuff. I just mixed some of the good idea i found here and on the internet. Special thank to tomtortoise for the method to build an acrylic case, and all the contributors on this thread.
    I use generic buttons with sanwa MS-O-3 switch, i bought the 200g sanwa springs but not received yet (you know akishop...). I will be able to judge the difference with the generic springs. I plan in the future to buy the real sanwa buttons.
    For the electronic i use the PCB from a Hori mini fighting stick. I kept the directional stick also.
    Miku drawing is from pixiv (https://www.pixiv.net/member.php?id=18227589).

    IMG_20170909_230137.jpg
    IMG_20170909_181446.jpg
    IMG_20170915_214242.jpg

    Now, I just need to get use to play with my arms and read those vertical double note on extreme songs !
     
  19. That's pretty clean for your "first experience in arcade stuff". Hope mine comes out like that. Looks great.
     
  20. #40 Drek, Oct 1, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2017
    Thank you, i'm pretty happy with the result. Please share yours when it's done.
    I installed the sanwa springs. It's much better now.
    IMG_20170928_182213.jpg
    I had also installed some dampening foam under my plungers because it was going to deep. Moreover it help reduce the noise.
    Generic buttons are now quite satisfying, but need some modifications.
     

Share This Page