Project diva homemade controllers

Ok first questions
1) Is the Arcade Controller (Latest One) you're using for Future Tone or MEGA49s.Mega Mix
2) Do you have the settings turned on for Arcade Controller Settings on very top to ON? (On PS4 its only in Japan version, ENG version doesn't have the option)

3) On PS4 Future Tone DX Version, did you switch the Normal to Arcade?

If it illuminates randomly without touch and activates, then something is wrong internally

 

Hi.
Yes this controller is for future tone, I have the ps4 version and the Japanese version of project diva. I also enabled arcade controller on the game and the arcade setting on the controller. The problem is that the touch slider activates by itself so I can't play the game because that spams the slider and even in the menu it scroll the song list without me touching it.

 

Then yeah its internal, most likely some of the wiring connected in Touch panel by PCB in the HORI dedicated controller, most likely a faulty connection since its registering touch with touching it and stuck

 

As I saw it's internal structure - slider and all "brains", all controllers are on one single slider board and wiredly connected to it (to slider board where all "brains", that I mentioned before) only buttons: 4 big buttons, some small buttons, analogs and same shit. And I really do understand in what can be problem at this moment, I hope @Raptor will post here everything with photos and detailed description what he discovered, because before I thought too about problems with wired connections, but maybe it's not, because there is no wired connection between slider and controllers, so it's something else. I thought it can be some materials like rubber of something same that can make sensors like this (my Cypress CapSense slider reacts on many materials, not only fingers, fortunately or unfortunately) and I have thoughts that there something same, but problem has some pattern, which can be caused by even deeper problem, like ordinary damage of slider, but I do not think that it can be so easily, so I think you'll have ideas

 

I was just wondering what the spring and switch weight is for the original sanwa 100mm arcade buttons

 

For PDA-FT Cabinet buttons and springs and optical switches, uses Sanwa OBSA-100UMQ (12V LED Bulb), Optical Sanwa OBSA-LHSXF Switches, Sanwa OBSA-OP (200g) Springs

 

Really? that seems really really heavy 200g wow

 

Optical Sanwa OBSA-LHSXF has inside it little spring too and amount of "g" there is unknown, I hope not really big, but amount of force, that needs to be applied is summed up and you get that in result it needs to apply more force than nominal 200g. I have now primitive homemade optical switches with Chinese buttons and 200g springs and it feels pretty well except for a couple of possible nuances (which I can only imagine, because never tried original SANWA OBSA-100UMQ, so it's interesting for me to compare those forehead to forehead), but at this variant it haven't internal springs with the exception of 200g spring inside button.
But I here https://projectdiva.net/community/threads/questions-about-sanwa-obsa-lhsxf-ln.2325/ have ideas and some developments in making clone of OBSA-LHSXF, but for Chinese buttons with significant assistance of @Doctopus and wanted upload some updates there, but have no abilities at this moment (because of some health problems at this moment that interfere me to even understand what I really did yesterday :((( )

 

I've tried both chinese stuff and sanwa, they are nothing alike even with modding, such as changing springs, lubing and padding.
not to mention optical switches are far more accurate than mechanical switches, which you can tell from playing the game itself.
the problem isn't the spring, it's the mechanism of the switches themselves imo.
If you want to save a buck, I would honestly get chinese button and put an optical switch on it (which is possible to do cheap : )

 

Did you tried any good low actuation force microswitchews like D2MV though. Those Chinese switches are way off and definitely belong to trash.

As for rigging photointerrupters, zhou did that before and failed pretty badly. Vibration causing the lever extension foam to fall off, unstable actuation point, you name it.

 

https://pasteboard.co/JuXsDMc.png

Totally not something that I'm working on: Part 2.

(Still far from finished but it's getting there)

 

sanwa optical switch is 70g actuation force (says on the website description https://item.rakuten.co.jp/sanwadenshi/ilumb_301/ )

I don't know what D2MV is but I tried genuine cherry ones with 75g actuation force and they were pretty much same thing as chinese ones probably due to the fact that the button housing itself wasn't precision made so it wobbled too much.

I don't know who zhou is but the video I provided shows the guy playing with no problem, he also has bunch other videos of him playing the game with insane precision without any issue.

 

Oh you mean hori buttons. Yea those can wobble pretty badly in a way that affects the gameplay. Regular chinese arcade buttons do wobble but won't really affect the gameplay due to longer lever stablizing the part that actuates the microswitch. Also hori buttons are easy to glue stuff on so a photointerrupter mod can be done much more reliably compare to regular chinese buttons because regular ones have only like 4mm^2 of area for the glue to work with.

D2MV only works with sanwa and regular chinese buttons but not hori because hori only takes keyboard switches.

 

has anyone made like a 3d printed part (or a tutorial in english) for attaching the photo interrupter switches to the chinese buttons? also, how do I wire them up?

 

For regular Chinese buttons, see ShinSanwaSwitch by @steelpuxnastik (LHSXF "clone" for Chinese buttons). For hori buttons, just remove the keyboard switch and epoxy a piece of cardboard on the actuator, then epoxy the photointerrupter near the switch holder so the cardboard can pass through the opening gap of the photointerrupter. If you want more precision, you can probably make a T shaped piece in OpenSCAD or something, 3D print it and epoxy it to the actuator. Use any weaker glue (e.g. double sided tape or hot glue at low temperature) if you don't plan to make the mod permanent and willing to sacrifice some vibration resistance.

 

hmm sounds great! also do you know what the best way to reduce button wobble is?
(I really need to buy springs for my buttons lmao)

 

I never actually tried to reduce the wobble for regular chinese buttons as I don't find them disruptive, but maybe add some duct tape between the gaps?

 

good idea I should try that and final question lmao, whats the bet way to get the proper springs whether it be buying official ones buying springs that match or making them im open to all ideas

 

It's difficult to find springs that aren't super hard from my experience. So I would suggest buying them from Sanwa's Rakuten shop. Although Rakuten closed the English version of ichiba, apparently Sanwa still does international shipping so that's not a big deal.

BTW to my surprise the springs that comes with my chinese buttons are only 300g. That's still almost 2x compare to OBSA-SP-200G though.

 

so this is probably the easiest way for me to get springs can I buy 100g springs and just put two in each button? https://www.gamo2.com/en/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=298