Project diva homemade controllers

If it's just standard buttons like me, you just have to turn it on the left, like a key, and it go off, then on the right to insert it.

 

I'm still not sure how to do my slider, but things changed and I need to do it for November event...

The principe seems simple enough...
One pcb for detection of the sensors made of copper, wired to the pcb entries, then one pcb to use code on it that will translate the inputs to a correct output though USB...

But I feel like I missing something related to resistors, and things like that...
Can someone show me all the needed things actually ?
I'm trying to do a controller working on PC (AFT/PPD) and PS4 with arcade mode (for switch, as I use hacked switch, I'll just translate the controller to Switch using my own build syscon module)

Thanks.

 

Its not standard buttons. Its the sanwa obsa-100umq buttons and obsa-lhsxf switches with the built in led. I tried twisting it but it doesn't move and the video I found shows them just pushing it straight in till it clicks but no turning.

 

You don't twist it. When disassembling you only remove from Switch>Bulb> then when get to pushbutton press and hold and remove the spring and to remove the button from the back Holder. A video assemble to follow backwards

 

Also to email gamo2 or post on their tweet so they can email image of the dissemble process images for Sanwa/LHSXF

 

I created thread about Sanwa OBSA-LHSXF-LN and I want to make a full clone of it. If you have OBSA-LHSXF-LN and you can say something about questions I listed there - please, I hope for your help
https://www.projectdiva.net/community/threads/questions-about-sanwa-obsa-lhsxf-ln.2325/

 

So I e-mailed GAMO2 and they confirmed that you do twist the switches to the left to remove them. The akishop video was using different switches that you don't twist and it got me confused. Anyway, I got my new springs put in and it feels great. I also made some noise dampeners out of some thin packing foam i had. Its not "silent" but it is noticeably quieter. Thank you all for your help.

 

Added Sanwa OBS M 1 micro switches to my Hori Mini Controller. and switched the buttons around to match the DX version.

 

Bomb, this one can only envy :)))

 

I envy your home made controller. Just looked at a video on your Instagram. Good job!

 

put sanwa optical switch + 200g springs
never played the arcade so i don't know if this actually feels like the real thing

The aftermarket sanwa led looks actually white unlike the OEM ones that has blue hue

 

The buttons look identical to the Sanwa ones so the feel compared to the original arcade should be identical.

 

o the buttons are sanwa ones, i just meant i never played the arcade so i dont know even if changing the game pad with sanwa button, switch and spring makes it feel the same as arcade

 

Ah, I thought Hori had made a good replica, in that case then what you have is exactly as in the arcades and will perform the same.

 

yeah they didn't, hori ones are really crappy. the parts are not interchangeable with sanwa ones at all

 

Nah, the mechanical switches and cheaper parts is what pushed me to buy DIVALLER. I helped switch the buttons and switches with a friends MEGA39s controller.

 

I am experimenting using a portable HDMI monitor with 10 point cap
touch as an arcade controller connected to a Nintendo Switch. The
monitor is flat on the back so it lays flat on a table. The cable
connectors are on the side. I do have some concerns about damaging the
monitor by endless finger tapping. Hooking up four buttons is probably
a better solution. Using the screen for slides should be OK.

The monitor is connected to Raspberry Pi running a Python3 program.
No fancy graphics at the moment. The program responds to touch events
(buttons and slider) by sending Nintendo Switch controller HID reports
out its UART. A small USB gadget connected to the UART puts the HID
reports out its USB port. The USB gadget could have been implemented
with a Pro Micro and LUFA software but it is an Adafruit Trinket M0.
Note the Switch is not hacked. The Trinket M0 pretends to be a Switch
compatible USB gamepad.

The slider has 32 touch areas which are encoded in AR mode. Thanks to
@Doctopus for documenting this. The slider seems to be working but the
code is still unstable. I am learning Python as well so this is going
slow.

Has anyone captured the USB traffic between Hori arcade controllers
and a PS4 and/or Switch? I wonder if there are special messages
packets that are not supported by gamepads. For example, can the
console control the LED strip?

 

No, in case of home consoles there is no special messages at all and console cannot control the LED strip. It can do only PDAFT on PC only in case of when you connect official slider to your PC via RS232. @Doctopus posted info about UART protocol of official slider, but I do not know really does anyone actually repeated it in his realization of slider?

As I understand for consoles you need emulate only gamepad input for it, for PS4 - Dualshock 4. for Switch - something from switch. I do not know. Hori (I think) can do that because it use some more advanced universal chip, that use xinput, directinput and someotherinput depending on how you turn it on, like in some not so expensive chinese gamepad, that can be used with Switch, PS4 and xbox, I think there is the same. So may be in case of Pro Micro there is needed to write 2 cases of code for PS4 (if it possible at all, I do not know) and Switch (same), make some jumper to use first or second case and may be then something can work. I definitely saw the possibility of emulation Xinput on Pro Micro, but haven't seen others. And may be if I'm somewhere wrong I hope you can correct me.

 

Thanks @steelpuxnastik for confirming the USB arcade controllers are using the
gamepad protocol with no extra messages.

There is an Arduino XInput (XBox 360) library that supports 32u4 (Pro
Micro/Leonardo) and Teensy LC/3 boards. Then use a Brook or MayFlash controller
adapter to connect to PS4. I read FTPS4 does not support AR mode so that might
be a complication. For the moment I will stick with Switch.

Someone has figured out how to emulate joycons and pro controller using the Pi
Bluetooth LE. Wireless will introduce some lag but it eliminates the need for
the Trinket M0 and all soldering!

https://github.com/mart1nro/joycontrol