Project diva homemade controllers

I used fully everything from here, but with my very little modifications/improvements (if someone can call it so)
http://pol.dip.jp/diva/
I was afraid about that 2+2mm plexiglass + picture between them will make use of slider very hard, but in result slider sense fingers in distance 1-1.5cm from slider, from top plexiglass part. And that is makes sometimes use of slider difficult due to false positives. I saw in Psoc Creator IDE settings of capacities of fingers for actuation contacts. If I change that settings to some less or more value, will it somehow help with those distant actuation of slider? And what setting I need - less or more? At first glance it seems that it needs "more".



But I see in manual something like "supports parasitic capacitance" (is that what I mean above?) And when value of finger capacitance is less - then parasitic capacitance is less too. Is that means that less value can solve problem?

 

More is the right way. Larger value lets the sensor look for higher capacitance change, or in other words decreases the sensitivity of the sensor, thus helps on eliminating false positives. FYI LKP has this set to 0.7 (!) but YMMV.

 

Thanks for the hint!
But may be I'll try to change settings after I'll receive PCBs for slider, that I made based on PCB from this post https://projectdiva.net/community/threads/project-diva-homemade-controllers.1465/page-6#post-16586

but, as this base board. and my board do not have ground hatch and this will somehow increase parasitic capacitance.

So I improved little board and made ground hatch in front and in back side, somehow as Cypress CapSence (https://www.cypress.com/file/41076/download) manual says, but only KiCad cannot make a 7 mil line, 10 is minimum and in some places it makes solid fill, so I do not know, will it make better then? :)))


Is it OK on your opinion?
But I'll look, what I'll receive with first variant and make decision, will I make second variant with ground hatch or not? :)

And by the way. I also received PCBs from plant in China (design - mine, trade marks - stolen :)))) ) and it's amazing, because soldering on such a board is a pleasure and everything turns out very carefully. I think in future I need to use solder mask on my home-made PCBs too, because it's really making much careful.

 

You can. Change the design rule to allow trace width < 10 mil. Most prototyping PCB manufacturer should do traces down to 5mil just fine, but be sure to check their capabilities to make sure.

I would recommend keeping the ground hatch because the design doc says so. I didn't actually try to do solid fill but just by intuition it's probably a bad idea. Also for big sensors like this using active shielding might help on reducing parasitic capacitance as well. However SEGA didn't use active shielding nor ground plane (?) on the real thing so it probably won't affect much tbh (but they also uses 2 chips).

 

Yes, that's work. But in result I did hatching using this manual, because now KiCad cannot make proper hatching like that, without sectors with solid fill. But that method has it's limitations, because imported hatching imports like footprint and it cannot be applied to any net and it needs to be very careful to see if it intersects with some trace.
But I already sent it to production, hope it will be good and then I'll test everything with ground and shielding :)

 

Heres a zip file Project DIVA Arcade buttons I recreated in photoshop, added the TOUCH SLIDER png image for those that makes Arcade controller with Touch Slider.

 

The PSoC® 4 CY8CKIT-049 for the "TOUCH SLIDE" and the cheaper 100mm pushbutton illumination teardown (I ordered the Sanwa pushbuttons yesterday for more Arcade feel) and I have the original arcade switches. I had to send my Universal PCB (Compatible with PC, PS3, PS4, Nintendo Switch) Board back yesterday because its faulty. The company said they'll send me a new replacement if I send the faulty one back.

 

Question, does anyone know the exact mm of the touch slider from Arcade Cabinet so I can send my acrylic sheet to be cut for touch slider?

 

520 mm length
50 mm height of touch elements. but that's doesn't mean that your slider cannot be smaller or bigger - make it as you want

 

Arigatou! And I will I want it to "resemble" Arcade but Imma add some extract for support on both PS3, PS4, PC, Switch

 

Wow, amazing plans! But I think you should exclude PS3 from that, because it's need very different controllers with way more buttons :) I think slider can be useful with STAR-notes in some way, but still, it needs arrow-buttons.
And I do not think that after PS4/PC it's comfortable to play on switch with 30fps. Because me, after playing half of year Arcade on PC - I totally cannot play Project Diva on PS Vita, but before I played it over 10 years, from the first Project Diva on PSP in 2009! My fingers are totally not manageable and after all game looks very slow, so now only arcade :)

 

Good points

 

Hi,

New to this forum :)

I thought it would be good to share the results of following this :

http://ryun.halfmoon.jp/touchslider/slider_protocol.html

I was about to buy the Divaller, but i found an original control panel on japanese auctions, so i gave it a try.











Touchslider is recognized as touchpad.

Perfectly working, the only missing thing is the multi colors for the touchslider.

I can write a detailed thread as well. A big amount of credits goes to Ryuhalfmoon.

 

I will follow carefully your progress :).

Sorry if i misunderstood, are you planning to use an universal brook board ?

 

Yes universal board!

 

Oh good.

Also I'm a beginner with fpga/arduino, for my use i took the exact same model of fpga as Ryuhalfmoon, but i guess arduino or other fpga boards can do the job.

 

Holy c*ap where did you get that ancient DS4 motherboard? I was going to get one for science but seems that b***k scavenged every single one of them for piracy or something and it's either impossible to find or scam-tier priced on shady websites.

 

I found it on a netherlands website, but it was the last one. A friend had 2 more jdm-001 pcbs that he gave me because he didn't use it anymore.

But i will test a universal fighting board from brook, i wonder if it is compatible.

 

It won't be. According to @phailyoor brook uses zet6223 as the touch chip for PS4/UFB. OTOH DS4 uses Atmel/Microchip MaxTouch chips and sometimes Cypress TrueTouch chips (and these 2 are not interchangable afaik). Although both zet6223 and the slider have simple enough protocol so you can pretty much just use an arduino to implement your own converter.

 

Thanks for the info Doctopus.

If i understand, brook UFC will be compatible with the correct arduino and protocol right ?