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I bought a Project Diva Arcade Future Tone Cabinet!

Discussion in 'Project DIVA Arcade & Arcade Future Tone' started by N10248, Apr 22, 2020.

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  1. IceKareem

    IceKareem Newbie Player

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    #141 IceKareem, Apr 5, 2022
    I would've probably tried to get it if I already didn't get that Nu 1.1 LMAO
     
  2. David Perales

    David Perales fevernight123

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    #142 David Perales, Apr 6, 2022
  3. IceKareem

    IceKareem Newbie Player

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    #143 IceKareem, Apr 6, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2022
    It finally arrived and I've been trying for the past 10 minutes to get the top lid off and I've had no success. I unscrewed the two screws around the port area where it is but are there other screws holding it in place?

    By the way, I was also able to figure out that the game the Nu 1.1 originally had on it is Chunithm Crystal. I've never heard of it before but I think it's another rhythm game.
     
  4. N10248

    N10248 Advanced Player

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    #144 N10248, Apr 6, 2022
    The lids on mine are tight too - i use a spoon at the back corners (fan vent end) to pry it forward.
     
  5. IceKareem

    IceKareem Newbie Player

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    #145 IceKareem, Apr 6, 2022
    THANK YOU I DID IT
     
  6. IceKareem

    IceKareem Newbie Player

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    #146 IceKareem, Apr 6, 2022
    Well an unfortunate thing happened and now I stripped one of the screws for the thing that holds down the GPU...
     
  7. N10248

    N10248 Advanced Player

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    #147 N10248, Apr 6, 2022
    The ones on the outside of the case or inside where it attaches to the hard disk bracket? As if its the inside ones, that part can stay attached to the larger hard disk holding part when removing it
     
  8. IceKareem

    IceKareem Newbie Player

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    #148 IceKareem, Apr 6, 2022
    The screws inside the thing that keeps the GPU in place. One screw I was able to get off, but the other one just kept chipping metal away and I don't know if it's even possible to unscrew it now... In case I managed to get it off, would any regular Phillips screw work in it's place or do I have to get a specific screw?
     
  9. N10248

    N10248 Advanced Player

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    #149 N10248, Apr 6, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2022
    leave it attached to the big plate that hold the disks and keychip holder and take the thing out as one piece, just remove the 4 screws on that and the 2 on the side of the case. once out remove the disks and try hammering a phillips into the bad screw to make the + more defined.

    Also all screws used inside are identical type, so just steal one from elsewhere in the case, if you are going to be putting your own parts inside and only using 1 hdd you'll gain 4 screws from the 2nd disk caddy.
     
  10. IceKareem

    IceKareem Newbie Player

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    #150 IceKareem, Apr 6, 2022
    Ohh alright, let me try that. I didn't realize that you could just remove the whole hard disk plate with the GPU plate
     
  11. N10248

    N10248 Advanced Player

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    #151 N10248, Apr 6, 2022
  12. IceKareem

    IceKareem Newbie Player

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    #152 IceKareem, Apr 7, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2022
    Ooo, well I was able to get the GPU out and I also did in fact manage to get that screw out (thankfully). I was scared I was gonna break it because the way the PCI lane mounts it is different than what usual motherboards use. Would it even be necessary to keep that GPU plate there?
     
  13. N10248

    N10248 Advanced Player

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    #153 N10248, Apr 7, 2022
    It's only to keep the card perfectly in place, it seems pointless as the card is so small it would never move on its own. Probably just to stop it dislodging when transported.
     
  14. IceKareem

    IceKareem Newbie Player

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    #154 IceKareem, Apr 7, 2022
    Yeah, figured as much.

    So now that I have this, is there a way to extract the game currently in it? Or is that process also difficult and/or requires a keychip as well?
     
  15. N10248

    N10248 Advanced Player

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    #155 N10248, Apr 7, 2022
    Not easy without the keychip...
    https://r1ce.net/2021/02/10/how-sega-nu-works-1/

    plus chunythm is already "out there".
     
  16. IceKareem

    IceKareem Newbie Player

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    #156 IceKareem, Apr 7, 2022
    Ohhh boy that does not sound like a good experience...

    I've always liked trying to extract games myself, but I've probably struck too hard with this one. At least now I have a GTX 750 Ti for using with the dumps of the game so that there's no shading issues.
     
  17. da1l6

    da1l6 Welcome to DIVA!

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    #157 da1l6, Jun 2, 2022
    I met an old friend who knows more about Elo touchscreens and we got it working with the current (8.0.0) windows driver.
    The key setting is to enable serial port hardware handshaking in the Elo driver.

    Steps:
    1. Uninstall any Elo driver if you have it installed.
    2. If you had AFT running since last power-on, disable auto starting of AFT and POWER DOWN the Machine (AFT changes the Serial Baud Rate of the touch controller, causing the Elo Driver not to find it), then boot it up again.
    3. Download the 8.x.x MultiTouch Driver from the Elo website
    4. Run the self extracting .exe.
    5. UNCHECK the "When done unzipping open: ...\Setup.exe" option.
    6. (Optional) Change Unzip folder to some non-temporary folder to keep a correctly configured setup around.
    7. Click "Unzip"
    8. Open the file <Unzip Folder>\<Driver version>\Common\EloOptions.ini with a text-editor (e.g. Notepad++)
    9. In the section "[Setup Options]" set the "HardwareHandshaking=0" option to "HardwareHandshaking=1" (this will make the touchscreen work at all)
    10. In the same section set "ForceMouse=0" to "ForceMouse=1" (this is required for the PD-Loader Input Emulator to pick up touch reliably, because it is just polling for mouse button state)
    11. Save the file
    12. Run the Setup.exe in the unzip folder and install normally.
    13. The touchscreen should be detected and working.
    14. The calibration is probably wildly off, calibrate using EloConfig installed with the driver.
    15. Done
    Caveats:
    The windows driver does not increase the baud rate of the touch controller, but keeps it at 9600 baud. This makes the in game volume slider operation slightly less smooth.

    However, it also eliminates AFT randomly not detecting the touchscreen on startup (which i attribute to the baud-rate switching and no fault tolerance in the AFT Touch screen code) that i had with both the original Nu and my replacement setup.

    Regards,
    da1l6
     
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  18. IceKareem

    IceKareem Newbie Player

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    #158 IceKareem, Jul 13, 2022
    Hii, I know I haven't talked here in a while but I'm a bit curious to know, what's the format of the game drive?
     
  19. N10248

    N10248 Advanced Player

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    #159 N10248, Jul 13, 2022
    Not sure but most likely NTFS like the other drive but could be exFAT too I supose.
     
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  20. N10248

    N10248 Advanced Player

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    #160 N10248, Sep 17, 2022
    Been a while since I posted on here. A while ago I got a Nu 1.1 mainly for spare parts like the PSU and Amex card. But decided today to try and use it's motherboard and SSD in my cab to make it more original.

    I am keeping my cab's original board and drives packed away unaltered, but don't care if the 1.1 board is never able to boot it's original drives again (I'm fairly sure it's Sonic and Mario at the olympics).

    I prepared a Windows 8.1 hard disk in an old HP PC and turned it off at the first reboot during setup, this way the installation copies all the files and picks up the OEM Windows key embedded in the HP system, but doesn't install any drivers and will activate properly when running on the Nu's Advantech motherboard. Plus I wasn't sure if the Nu would allow booting from a CD or USB installer so this was an easier option.

    [​IMG]

    The Nu board booted the drive with no issues and finished the setup, and activated properly when it went online. Windows update didn't find the specific Realtek audio drivers so I had to download them seperately, it had sound before via the generic windows driver but the game needs the proper Realtek ones.

    This board differs slightly to the original Nu 1.0 model in that the colour coding of the audio ports is different. I connected headphones to the green port but got no sound, it turns out the pink one is the default audio out which would normally be an input on most boards. This layout matches the original 1.0 board which had green (bottom), black (middle) and orange (top) ports.

    I copied the game onto it and its runs perfectly with sound.

    I formatted the original Apacer SAFD 64GB SSD, these are not password protected but there are multiple partitions which some are encryped with bitlocker. However it is easy to format in Windows Disk Management like any other disk. it's SMART stats show it's only been on for about 2800 hours.

    Later I'll do it all again on this drive and only install the bare minimum needed.
     
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